There have been several threads here about parts quality.
As I'm building a 4 synchro box, I have been following them.
After recent comments, I tried to run a file over parts of the new layshaft I planned to use. Bit worried about the result.

Tried the same on the old shaft coming out - not a scratch!
Will have to try another shaft and supplier.

Typical

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

If it can be file marked it is useless. Needs to be 62HRC+ hardness for rollers to run direct on it.
I've taken various brand ones to GR for testing, we have not found a soft one yet. All were 60 or better.
But who knows what the case hardened depth is, or the steel spec these days.
I can say most don't last like originals did.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

What supplier did you get it from?
I've got a hardened one from Minisport Australia coming this week.


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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

I just tried to mark the layshaft that I pulled out of my gearbox. Couldn't mark it with a file.

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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

I'm not sure where I bought the shaft, as I have been collecting gears etc for several years now, mostly from Mini Spares when they have had old stock on special.
I am also thinking about the Minisport shaft. Might wait and see what you think!
Now I am worried about the parts in the Mk1 box rebuilt about 3 years ago.

My Minisport shaft will arrive today, I'll post my findings here when I get home.

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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

As I mentioned in the other post my new “comp” layshaft was bent. It came in a minispares bag from a local supplier. Luckily Justin who was helping me with the gearbox had a couple of used factory ones that were still in perfect condition.

I ended up using lots of used good condition factory parts rather than new replacements. Also I was advised to avoid the KOR branded bearings and get some decent RHP or Japanese made ones that have the correct amount of needles

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I've ordered the RHP brand for all of the big roller bearings. Not sure what brand the smaller needle bearings are, I'll see if I can ID them when they arrive.

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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

I have just ordered 2 more branded larger layshaft needle roller bearings from the local bearing shop. They seem to be a standard size and freely available.
But the small layshaft needle roller must be specific to minis so has to come through a parts source. A new one I have here has only 12 rollers in the cage - not 13 and they are 2mm shorter.
The box it came in has the web address as "gsl.eu.com" which stands for "Global Supply and Logistics", a UK firm who find a manufacturer who can do production runs of anything, including for the classic car industry - rubber, electrical (Lucas), metal castings, bearings etc.
So not much choice for certain things.

well done Bill B, good investigative skills.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

All of the big ball bearings and the outrigger bearings are RHP.

The small needle bearings are labelled as you say, "gsl.eu.com" and "SCH" logo.



Small layshaft bearing has 12 needles.



Box for the layshaft...on the website it says Australian Made, so not sure why the box has 'Europe' on it.



New layshaft on the left. Clearly some differences to the one I had in there on the right (different angle/transition).



A standard scrape of the file on the new one didn't leave a noticeable mark. When I really went at it with the file it made this small mark, which I could feeling with fingers/nail.



I did the same to the other layshaft and appeared to have the same result - as earlier posted, didn't make a mark,but when I went at it again with a strong grind of the file it left a similar small mark I could feel.

Edit 1: BTW the guys I bought the layshaft from said his opinion was that the shaft would have failed and then the bearing. But I think the failure mode was the bearing in this case. The galling seems to be in the area behind where the bearing locates - where the remains of the bearing ended up. Would you agree?

Edit 2: I wonder if we could machine out the small end of the laygear a little further and run two bearings on the small end, like they do on the large end. I don't know if that would remove any surface hardening that's on the laygear though...just a thought.

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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

Re: Box for the layshaft...on the website it says Australian Made, so not sure why the box has 'Europe' on it.

Probably only the part number sticker and some local outer packaging made by (for example) Visy!!

https://www.visy.com.au/packaging/cardboard-boxes/

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"Show me the Mini!"

IMO the shaft wears through its thin case hardening first, then eventually the bearing cage can break up. But not common.

In my case the S cluster gear was badly worn inside and I'd not noticed it when I rebuilt the box 20,000 miles (20 years) ago. Otherwise the (UK) needle bearing may have survived intact.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Check out website on the box in one of Morbo28 photos.
http://www.gsl.eu.com

Global Supplies and Logistics offer branding and packaging with any name the customer wants as part of their services.