Hoping to remove my upper control arms to give everything a good clean and to replace the knuckle boots. My research has led me to believe that I need to remove the large nut off each side, then remove the two small bolts on the engine bay side (as pictured). The shaft should then slide out? Presumably into the engine bay side as there is no room in the wheel well side.

On the passenger side I am guessing it is a radiator out job?
The nut in the wheel well side looks like there wouldn't be enough room to take it off?
Any tricks to this job I should know?

Undo the large nut at back and the 2 small bolts at front. The shaft will come out forwards with plate attached.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The nut sometimes has space to come off... Depends on the car in my experience. If it doesn't it can be wound off as the pin moves forward after removing the two small bolts - and yes, getting it back in is a bit of a fiddly job.

_________________
*witty signature*

Sapphire Blue Deluxe spread across three parts cars, two sheds and a driveway...

Alternative is to give it a good pressure clean, check for movement and seals on arms, and leave it in there.
Replace the knuckle joints and and quick coat of black. Bingo!

If replacing the arm bearings they should be uncaged, as originally fitted. These have approximately 2x the static load rating of the caged ones, as there are more rollers. Less likely to chew the shaft up.

They are a bugger to remove without a puller. Details of one are in the how to forum. Same tool pulls idler gear bearings.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I would have thought the arm needs to come out to replace the knuckle joint?

Nah. Can be done in situ.

Have sent you a PM.

_________________

I just did my knuckle joints. I dropped the hydro pressure to under 20psi and removed the rebound rubber.

Thanks to all who helped/offered advice. For anyone else who reads this looking for a solution, my knuckle joins had fused themselves to the hydro suspension and just needed a little encouragement to come free.

In remarkably good condition:

I still want to remove the upper arms to clean out the old grease as there is something blocking new grease from getting in. Any tips on getting the two smaller bolts off through the little access window? There doesn't seem to be enough room to get a spanner or a ratchet in there, maybe I could get to them through the front grill with very long extensions? Or is it best to just get the radiator out of the way?

Pull the radiator, it's easier than `keyhole surgery'.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

And while the radiator is out you may want to get it cleaned out. Replace or rebuild the water pump. Replace rad hoses. Replace the bypass hose. Which will lead to replacing the bypass fitting and Head gasket etc etc. Dont you love minis.

I had planned to remove the radiator after getting the 4 wheels back on the car, just looks like I will have to re-arange my job list a little and move that up the line a little!

yeah, pull the radiator - it does seem like the long way 'round, but it saves a lot of pain

_________________
did I tell you that I won a trophy?