Anyone got any good ideas as to how I can get an accurate check of timing on my Cooper S (Cyril) given the timing marks have been cut off the flywheel (along with a fair amount of metal).

I've lined up the keyway on the crank and incscribed new marks. I've checked with the light and these are within 5 deg of the current setting. But, if I adjust the timing (about 4 deg) using these marks to the stipulated 4deg BTDC then Cyril starts to labour somewhat.

I presume I've either got the marks out by a degree or two, or perhaps there's a non-standard cam?

Any ideas?

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1965 Cooper S

I have the same problem- lightened flywheel. Luckily I have a belt drive kit- it has timing marks on the cover..

2 solutions:
1. put a late Clubbie timing cover on it- it has marks there too....

or,
2. Forget the static marks- just advance until it pings a little then retard it a fraction. The original timing specs for leaded fuel are no good now anyhow, and who knows what cam it has... that will affect it too.
Once it is running right, just put a mark on the flywheel (use white paint pen) for the strobe light.

Mine runs 35* total advance at 4500 rpm. I have a mark on the crank pulley, and another on the timing case, at 35*. (my dizzy has a 10* advance cam- that's 20* at crank).
That's about 15*static advance running 98 octane.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Speaking of dizzy advance curves, what is the difference between say 10* built in advance on a dizzy and say 12* or 9*? Hammill's book Performance Tuning Minis on a Tight Budget says to always get a 10* dizzy, but he never says why.

Anto.

Won't matter on most motors. 10* was pretty common in 45Ds, thru the 70s. I've got 3 of 'em..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.