Does anyone know the thread size of the exhaust mounting bolt that goes into the gearbox housing. Mine has dropped out somewhere in its travels, and I dont wanna lose the entire pipe.

Any help would be appreciated. I know it looks like 1/4 or 5/16, but I dont wanna stuff the thread.

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"He's always been a dickhead, He always is a dickhead, He will always be a dickhead. So stop complaining when he acts like one."

yeah the same thing happened to me at work, (was delivering pizzas then) and this hissing noise started coming through the floor, then i hit a bump and it was wob wob wob, sounded soooo good.. pulled over and just psuhed them behind the extractors , (slide on type) and went back to work like that, heheh restaraunt full of people..

but yeah i tool it to the zorst place the next day cause it broke all the mounts except the front rail of the rear suby.. i wasnt there but the wally got a 3/8t air ratchet and guned a bigger bolt into the hole.. was ok for a few mins.. got the car home ready for work the next night and theres probably a litre of oil on the garage floor took it back and he put some instant crap sealant in a tube, slapped it on there, but it still leaks..

but no sorry dont know what size thread...

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GTi Turbo'd mini, abused daily

It's 5/16" UNC, NOT UNF.

If hole is stripped, I tap them out to 3/8UNC and put a bigger bolt in. Better and stronger than messing with helicoils..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Same thing here... Down to the delivering Pizza's part!!!!

I managed ot fit an M10 bolt in there for the time being, BUT, the thread is absolutely fooked so I've still gotta helicoil it ASAP...

Try 'n get the bolt on ASAP otherwise as 998 said, all your exhaust mounts will be gone in no time!

I'd tap it 3/8, or 10mm, not helicoil it.

Tips- 1. ALWAYS use a NEW spring washer. These will bite into the nut and bracket, and stop it coming loose. A bit of Loctite on the thread helps, too.

2. Try and use as long a bolt as possible. Often they strip the hole because the bolt was too short in the first place.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks guys. Bit of a downer really coz all the fasteners at work are in UNF . Oh well, Powerbolt will haveta get a call, I spose.

Helicoils and inserts are normally pretty good? I take it in this case, they dont work real well with the housing??

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"He's always been a dickhead, He always is a dickhead, He will always be a dickhead. So stop complaining when he acts like one."

On a remote change or magic wand box, helicoils and inserts are OK.

But on a rodchange box, it's a through hole, and pretty short- these are better just tapped bigger, IMO.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thnk god I've a got a remote box then!

Definately go for the helicoil or insert... I put the "temp" bolt in last week and It's already fallen out!

I had a look under there today, and it looks bigger than 5/16. Might have been tapped out already, but being a through hole, whats wrong with putting a bolt straight through with a self locking nut on there??

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"He's always been a dickhead, He always is a dickhead, He will always be a dickhead. So stop complaining when he acts like one."

If the nut will fit in behind there, go for it, but space is pretty tight if I remember...

I think the hole is against one side of the casting recess, but good luck!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.