When re torquing the cylinder head, is it done hot or cold?

Replaced a previous 1275cc gasket due to an oil leak between the head and block.

I have fitted a copper/steel gasket with Hylomar sealant and have taken the car for a few short runs to the shops etc. All seems good and the leak has stopped.
When I recheck the torque on the head, is it meant to be cold or hot?

Cold

Cold

_________________
1986 Mayfair (998 auto), 1974 S, 1974 Van, 1972 PMG Van

Too many minis

Not sure if it really matters that much on a mini engine because i have seen people do it both ways without any issues. As long as you retorque them because they can loosen 5-10 ft/lb after an initial run in depending on the gasket used. The copper steel gasket wont squash down as much as a cheep composite gasket. The theory behind hot retorquing is that the steel studs expand a bit more than the cast head.

HI All
When you torque a head down for cast iron heads you do it when hot
For alloy heads do them when they are cold.
Graham Russell

_________________
"It's better to be not informed than ill-informed"

100% for GRR
And when retorqueing , back of each bolt as you do it half a turn,then come forward and then you wont only read the break away torque.
I also suggest loosening / removing radiator cap to remove coolant pressure whilst you are doing this job.

cheers Lindsay

_________________
1959 Austin A40 Farina fun car
1965 Mk1 Cooper S restored
1970 Colt 1100F SS restored
2014 Mitsubishi Imiev fully electric daily driver
1948 Allard M coupe Olds 215 v8 project
1971 Twin cam Escort ex Uk championship winning rally car project

I looked up the drawings for the hot run test and in all cases, A B and E series engines, the cylinder head nuts are retorqued with the engine at normal operating temperature. For P76 V8, no retorque specified.

When does everyone do the retorque? Km/time etc

_________________
1986 Mayfair (998 auto), 1974 S, 1974 Van, 1972 PMG Van

Too many minis

....and would there be any difference between a newly rebuilt engine and just a head gasket replacement on a motor already run-in?

Thanks for the replies and for the little technical tips. Always worth hearing.

No difference new build or gasket replacement. Run until hot, retorque, adjust valves.
Recheck after 500km or so. When hot.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Do you need to retorque the head having used one of the various lifting brackets that use the head studs and if so do you do the whole thing or just those that were disturbed?

_________________
Cheers Dave.

Good question Dave...... I don't have an answer but thought i would add unrequested info anyway ( sorry forum)

I don't like the brackets that use the cylinder head studs ...unless of course you are going to take the head off anyway....because of some possible impact on the gasket seal...probably unfounded fear

and for another 2 cent worth , tappet lash measured hot as well.

I just retorque the bracket studs.
A series head is stiff, it's Detroit wonder metal, not soft rubbish alloy like modern cars.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.