I am having to replace the slave cylinder, haven't done it in a looong time any tips you care to share particularly bleeding it ?

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That's why it's good to be.............ME

Usually the easiest hydraulic to bleed with few issues.
Worth checking this post about the spreader that sits behind the main cup and isn't always included in aftermarket units. I think it can cause air to be pulled around the cup lip over time.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=99732&hilit=clutch+slave+cylinder

Can't remember but think I bleed it with the return spring in place. When working properly, the travel of the pushrod of the slave cylinder should be around 19mm.

Once its all buttoned up slowly open the bleed valve while pushing the piston (using the pushrod) as far in as you can. Close the bleed valve and slowly use pedal pressure to move the piston and rod back to its proper position.

Other wise you can end up with a bubble behind the piston that just tumbles about rather than being forced out of the valve.

Cheers, Ian

If you have bought a cheap and cheerful silver slave cylinder they have no seal spreader in them.
So unless you drive it nearly every day it will suck air in past its seal.
To fix this, either pinch the one out of your old cylinder (if fitted) or contact me, I made some a while ago and have a few left.
The manufacturer of these cylinders was contacted by a supplier here and didn't care.
AP cylinders do have the spreader, if still sold.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Doc I have got a old steel one that has been stainless steel lined set up ready to go .

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That's why it's good to be.............ME