Ausmini
It is currently Mon Jul 21, 2025 11:35 am

All times are UTC + 10 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 12 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2017 4:39 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 10:35 am
Posts: 164
Location: Townsville, Queensland
Hi all,

I'm trying to get my old mini 850 running again, so far i've completed:

New battery
New spark plugs
New clutch slave and bleed clutch fluid
New clutch spring and copper washer
Replaced engine oil and filter
Installed electronic fuel pump (thought the mech was failed)
Replaced fuel lines (engine side only)

Its trying to turn over but it won't start, the fuel gauge read full so i thought it was full, turns out it was empty and the tank is leaking. I've pulled the tank out, looks like its coming from seam on the bottom of the tank. I'm guessing the fuel sender unit is also busted if it read full?

I tried to run it on a coke bottle with petrol in it but it wouldn't tick over, i've pulled the carby out thinking it needs a new kit, i rebuilt it when it was running years ago. Any tips on what to look for in the carby?

Whats the best plan of attack for the fuel tank, i did a quick search on gumtree but couldn't see anything remotely close?

Thank you.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2017 5:37 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Tue Sep 19, 2006 1:20 pm
Posts: 883
Location: Airport West
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MORRIS-LEYLA ... SwHMJYEC8r

or give Matt @ readspeed a yell { aka miniman on here }

_________________
120bhp with 450kg just fun waiting to happen

We were prob. drunk when we set it up last and thought this will be a good idea


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2017 6:51 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc

Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:33 pm
Posts: 1195
meehal wrote:
Hi all,

I'm trying to get my old mini 850 running again, so far i've completed:

?..................

Whats the best plan of attack for the fuel tank, i did a quick search on gumtree but couldn't see anything remotely close?

Thank you.


I had similar leak.. The tank is welded together using some sort of roller spot weld device. It leaves a sort of hatched track (looks like a 'dozer track)..on the join. If this wanders too close the edge it cuts into the bottom of the tank creating a row of pin point holes ..which have obviously been sealed by paint since it left the factory.... until someone removed the paint :( I smeared on some tank sealant (from Repco - I think... it was some time ago)...add a bit of paint and the repair has lasted enough years for me to consider it permanent.

Cheers, Ian


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2017 8:06 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 10:35 am
Posts: 164
Location: Townsville, Queensland
Hey,

Thanks guys, i'll give Matt a call tomorrow. I need a bunch of other parts too.

I had considered repairing the tank, but its quite a leak. i poured a little fuel in and it started dripping out straight away. I guess i'm a little nervous it been next to a battery as well. I saw that por-15 do like a tank repair kit that you slosh around the inside. That looks pretty cool, anyone tried this?

Thanks.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 8:11 am 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 10:35 am
Posts: 164
Location: Townsville, Queensland
Ok, i've taken some pics of the fuel tank and sender unit.

Is there any way to repair the sender unit or should it be replaced, after doing some googling it looks like a van sender unit?

Image

here is a pic of the tank:

Image

Image

I'm going to call a tank repair place today and see what they say, i don't really want to spend $500 on a new tank and i think because its leaking out so fast that por-15 is a bit of gamble at $120-150.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 7:48 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Sat Feb 22, 2014 10:13 am
Posts: 1362
Hi meehal. Here's a post from my build thread where I used it.

Quote:
Did a couple of things today, using the new products.

Firstly the tank, I used the resto kit...I forgot to take a pic of the inside of the tank before I cleaned it, whoops.
The tank from the 68 Deluxe
Image

Patch all of the holes prior to treatment
Image

The inside of the tank after the "Marine Clean" and "Metal Ready" process, ready to paint
Image

I didn't know how to deal with that fuel pickup filter. I couldn't seem to catch the end to remove it, so I just ignored it and I will manage that part later...I blew compressed air through the pipe to at least keep the tube clear after I applied the paint.

Perfect fit. The tank doesn't need to be dried between the Clean and Prep phases, but must be bone dry prior to applying the paint. The trusty hair drier sorted it out quickly.
Image

I used line trimmer line inserted into each hole (made larger with duct tape if required) in order to ensure I didn't seal the holes that need to stay. I then sealed further later with duct tape.
Image

The paint is silver in order to aid vision to confirm complete coverage once applied inside the tank.
Image

Keep mixing until this is one solid colour.
Image

The inside of the tank after the paint has been applied, swirled around for 15-20 mins to ensure even and complete coverage; then emptied. Note the river of excess paint I am guiding to the hole to drain. Tip - gaf tape a vinyl/latex glove to the tank neck to catch the excess, just like I didn't.
Image

A few minutes later - looks like good even coverage.
Image

The fate of the original fuel filter - still have to deal with that!
Image

There's a video I shot of the inside that I like. Sounds unnecessary but gives a good indication of the result immediately after application - I'll post tomorrow, along with the update on the polishing.


Given what you've described, I'd think it could be restored, but it's up to you obviously.

_________________
Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2017 5:44 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 10:35 am
Posts: 164
Location: Townsville, Queensland
Hey morbo,

Thanks for the detailed information, i ended up calling a local radiator repair company i'd used before as it listed they repaired tanks. I explained the situation and where the fuel was coming from and they weren't too concerned. So i've given it to them to asses and try to repair.

If the petrol was just weeping out i would try por15 fuel tank repair, i've used there black rust paint (can't remember what its called now) and it was amazing, expensive though.

I should get the tank back in the next couple of days and i'll know if its a write off or not.

Also, i didn't realize there was a fuel pickup in the tank, how did you deal with that in the end? I'm now reading your build thread, impressive!!!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2017 9:04 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Sat Feb 22, 2014 10:13 am
Posts: 1362
Thanks Meehal :)

I must admit I knocked the mesh filter off and left it without one. I have a filter immediately after the tank (before the electric fuel pump) so I'm not concerned about it from that perspective. But with a single round opening it would be at higher risk of clogging.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

_________________
Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 11:36 am 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 10:35 am
Posts: 164
Location: Townsville, Queensland
I finally made it to the part in your build thread where you mounted your electric holley underneath and i saw the filter there and before the carby in your setup. Sounds like you're covered pretty well. I'm thinking about moving my facet pump to the rear similar to your setup.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 11:43 am 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:19 pm
Posts: 4501
Location: Wollongong, NSW
There are a couple of different types of fuel pumps, some are "suck" and are located near the engine bay and some are "push" and are under the tank. Just make sure yours in in the right spot or it won't work properly :)

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 1:31 pm 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39754
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Facet pumps should all be mounted below the tank. They are not designed to suck from the front.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 6:03 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 10:35 am
Posts: 164
Location: Townsville, Queensland
Ha! thanks guys, that might explain some issue i've been having.

I had an electric fuel pump in my leyland and it was under the hood, just figured they were all like that.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 12 posts ] 

All times are UTC + 10 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], Steam and 83 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  

© 2016 Ausmini. All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.