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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 7:59 am 
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Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2011 8:17 am
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Location: san remo nsw
I've been working on cars for 45 years and I know everything there is to know about all aspects of car restoration...
..........NOT!
You're learning something every day, not necessarily new but maybe better or heaven forbid, the right way. :-)
Your post is great, so helpful and put in terms that even nob heads like me can understand.
I liked the one about the metric/imperial dimensions. Being an old fart, I work in both. i.e. My tape measure has both so it's not unusual for me to cut out bits 110mm x 1' 6", what ever lines up. :-)
40years ago I bought an Ondair 17cfm compressor ( has 'made in Australia' on it! )
It was the best i could afford at the time, figured I could upgrade at a later date. Now, a zillion cars and motorbike resto's later, I still have it and it works as good today as it did way back then. My advice re equipment, is do a bit of homework, ask some one who knows, such as yourself, then buy the best you wallet will cope with.
Just a couple of questions. Can you still buy the likes of Dulon? Wouldn't that be more 'authentic' for restorations?
Second question is, if not, whats your thoughts on cutting and buffing 2k to give the old fashion Dulon look?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 8:09 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2005 11:48 pm
Posts: 1842
Location: Hobart, Tasmania
Womble72 wrote:
..So a 14cfm would be smallest i would go for...


That's cool, thanks. I'll aim for the biggest one I can get that will run on 15A single phase. I've been looking at the Peerless P17 too.

cheers
Tim

_________________
1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 3:28 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2017 3:30 pm
Posts: 31
peterb wrote:
I've been working on cars for 45 years and I know everything there is to know about all aspects of car restoration...
..........NOT!
You're learning something every day, not necessarily new but maybe better or heaven forbid, the right way. :-)
Just a couple of questions. Can you still buy the likes of Dulon? Wouldn't that be more 'authentic' for restorations?
Second question is, if not, whats your thoughts on cutting and buffing 2k to give the old fashion Dulon look?


Yeah I so understand what you mean i am still learning about painting 25ish years in..but there are so many different skills i need help with...engine,electrial,trimming..

Yes Dulon is available through PPG they make it now... Yes it is still a good/great product.
Yes it would give a more authentic factory look but the chemistry has moved on.
Dulon in the 1960s was a Nitrocellulose based product i know the stuff was dangerous. It was called a E-type lacquer.
It was related to explosives somehow pretty dangerous stuff.
We moved on to A type dulon acrylic lacquer in 1970s??? i know it was around before my apprenticeship in 1988 the signs were old then..(was it ICI Dulux back then not sure.)2k was already 50% of total work even then.
A type is really forgiving and happy to be used in a garage.. Colour sanding is a skill just take your time and keep away from edges.. Rub throughs will make you sad.
Good news is
The Mini is small and has rounded edges if you are going to learn this skill this is the car. So much better than a huge 1950s american finned land monster to learn on.
If you want we can cover colour sanding as soon as i work out how to insert pictures here.
anyway hope this helps


Last edited by Womble72 on Mon Feb 06, 2017 6:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 6:09 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2017 3:30 pm
Posts: 31
PPE FOR SPRAYPAINTING

When I started spray painting our health and safety procedure was based around drinking Milk. While milk is delicious and perfect for dunking TimTams. Im not sure of it’s ability to save you from deadly chemicals
Equipment now is so much better than Milk
I like old painters. they have magical grey beards, wear white overalls. They have old English sheepdogs and are amazing to behold in the wild.
I hope to be a old painter one day but unfortunately they are like unicorns at present. So become a magical old paint unicorn and wear your bloody mask.
Automotive spray paint contains serious chemicals that cause health risks, chemicals like.
Butyl acetate, xylene, ethylbenzene, acetone, Hexamethlene diisocyanate and other really bad stuff.
In basic terms it contains chemicals that will damage your blood, kidneys, liver, brain, gastrointestinal tract, upper respiratory tract,lungs, skin, central nervous system, eyes lens and cornea. Throw in for free are medical syndromes..
1/Chronic solvent-induced encephalopathy (includes early dementia and lack of sex drive)
2/Painters Syndrome (Includes violent mood swings and suicide)
But wait there is more increased rates of cancers and occupational asthma. To top it off even a chance to genetically pass on a defect to children.

BEFORE YOU EVEN START PAINTING.
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE M.S.D.S

If you don’t read the Material Safety Data Sheet you should not touch a spray gun or buy paint.
The information contained in a MSDS will include Hazard Identification, Ingredients, first aid, fire fighting advice, Long term exposure advice, Exposure controls and personal protection advice.
When buying paint demand a MSDS they have to supply when asked its law.
Follow MSDS
Ask questions…until you are sure you understand.


I HAVE A MASK SO I AM GOOD RIGHT?
Um most likely no. At trade school a Sundstrom mask rep checked fit and correct technique of all apprentices. 80% failed. Try placing Fine White flour where your mask meets your face. Breath normally through your mask for a few minutes did the flour make it through? Congrats you have lung cancer. This was the method the rep used.
A lot of apprentices quit after this..
If you are buying a starting off mask I would recommend the Sundstrom SR 90 half face mask or better.It comes in Small, Medium and Large for the size of your face. In every box there is a black rubber disc that most people throw as rubbish keep it. You place the disc in front of your filters when you need to check your mask. If you can not breathe you mask, diaphragms are working and you are wearing it correctly. Read all the instructions to all your mask as wel . I would also buy your mask from a proper health and safety shop. Ask to get fitted for a Mask and take the MSDS to help them select the filters you will need. Remember once the filters are on the mask they are working you need to place it in an airtight container when not on your face. Change filters as instructions recommend.
Masks work only when they are on your face… they lose all effectiveness when left in your toolbox. Laugh it up but you be surprised how many times I ask painters where their mask is..
Sundstrom is my recommendation. Ask others, seek advice.
But buy Quality
SO I BOUGHT A GOOD HALF MASK.
Well a well fitted quality mask with correct filters (dust and gas types) is the least I would go.
A lot of painters use this type of mask day to day but if you intend to paint a lot (weekly) or work with 2k paint you need more protection.
What is ideal for 2k is an Air Fed Hood. Why? Masks with filters rely on filtering out toxic chemicals they are super good but not 100% effective chemicals still get through.
An air fed hood and wall mounted filter package these systems filter compressed air and supply it to a hood kept at higher pressure. The painter always breathes clean air its 100% effective These are a worthy purchase if you intend to keep painting. Seek advice with these. SATA makes really good units.
OK I GOT THIS MASK STUFF DOWN… IM GOOD TO GO RIGHT?
Um no.
Your skin is not a barrier to chemicals… anything on your skin is in your blood doing damage.
The soft skin on your body is very good at transferring chemicals into your blood. When you have paint on your skin imagine that it is a nicotine patch but its transferring bastard chemicals into your blood that want to kill you.
So wear gloves to keep hands paint free.
Barrier suits( white Tyvek suits) to keep overspray off skin.
Glasses to keep overspray out of your eyes.
If you finish you day painting and your hands or skin are a mess you failed..
Reconsider what you did to do better next time.
I think this covers it but read the MSDS first and do what it recommends exactly it is there only to look after you and keep you safe.
Hope this helps
Wear a mask
next time we will cover something more fun.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 8:22 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 8:38 pm
Posts: 607
Thanks for the great post, maybe it would good to include the use of the best primers to use on a bare shell which has been sand blasted eg epoxy primer some of the mini boys tend to cut cost by using not so good primers and then they use another brand of paint.
P7676


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2017 3:28 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2017 3:30 pm
Posts: 31
p7676 wrote:
Thanks for the great post, maybe it would good to include the use of the best primers to use on a bare shell which has been sand blasted eg epoxy primer some of the mini boys tend to cut cost by using not so good primers and then they use another brand of paint.
P7676

Thanks for the reply p7676. Yeah, sure we could cover this. Maybe actually get some replies from the actual paint companies themselves.
see what they recommend.
See if I can get done for late next week


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 1:22 am 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:13 am
Posts: 411
Womble72 wrote:
peterb wrote:
I've been working on cars for 45 years and I know everything there is to know about all aspects of car restoration...
..........NOT!
You're learning something every day, not necessarily new but maybe better or heaven forbid, the right way. :-)
Just a couple of questions. Can you still buy the likes of Dulon? Wouldn't that be more 'authentic' for restorations?
Second question is, if not, whats your thoughts on cutting and buffing 2k to give the old fashion Dulon look?


Yeah I so understand what you mean i am still learning about painting 25ish years in..but there are so many different skills i need help with...engine,electrial,trimming..

Yes Dulon is available through PPG they make it now... Yes it is still a good/great product.
Yes it would give a more authentic factory look but the chemistry has moved on.
Dulon in the 1960s was a Nitrocellulose based product i know the stuff was dangerous. It was called a E-type lacquer.
It was related to explosives somehow pretty dangerous stuff.
We moved on to A type dulon acrylic lacquer in 1970s??? i know it was around before my apprenticeship in 1988 the signs were old then..(was it ICI Dulux back then not sure.)2k was already 50% of total work even then.
A type is really forgiving and happy to be used in a garage.. Colour sanding is a skill just take your time and keep away from edges.. Rub throughs will make you sad.
Good news is
The Mini is small and has rounded edges if you are going to learn this skill this is the car. So much better than a huge 1950s american finned land monster to learn on.
If you want we can cover colour sanding as soon as i work out how to insert pictures here.
anyway hope this helps


The main issue with nitrocellulose paint is the dry resin is unstable, and can explode. My understanding is the finished paint is ok. There is still a lot of nitrocellulose lacquers used for painting musical instruments.

_________________
Lindsay Palmer
06 Mazda SP23
80 Alfa GTV (weekend toy)
86 626 Turbo (daily drive, now stolen)
71 cooper s replica
69 cooper replica
76 clubman
62 english 850
68 Mini Auto


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 1:39 am 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:13 am
Posts: 411
Womble72 wrote:
PPE FOR SPRAYPAINTING

When I started spray painting our health and safety procedure was based around drinking Milk. While milk is delicious and perfect for dunking TimTams. Im not sure of it’s ability to save you from deadly chemicals
Equipment now is so much better than Milk
I like old painters. they have magical grey beards, wear white overalls. They have old English sheepdogs and are amazing to behold in the wild.
I hope to be a old painter one day but unfortunately they are like unicorns at present. So become a magical old paint unicorn and wear your bloody mask.
Automotive spray paint contains serious chemicals that cause health risks, chemicals like.
Butyl acetate, xylene, ethylbenzene, acetone, Hexamethlene diisocyanate and other really bad stuff.
In basic terms it contains chemicals that will damage your blood, kidneys, liver, brain, gastrointestinal tract, upper respiratory tract,lungs, skin, central nervous system, eyes lens and cornea. Throw in for free are medical syndromes..
1/Chronic solvent-induced encephalopathy (includes early dementia and lack of sex drive)
2/Painters Syndrome (Includes violent mood swings and suicide)
But wait there is more increased rates of cancers and occupational asthma. To top it off even a chance to genetically pass on a defect to children.

BEFORE YOU EVEN START PAINTING.
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE M.S.D.S

If you don’t read the Material Safety Data Sheet you should not touch a spray gun or buy paint.
The information contained in a MSDS will include Hazard Identification, Ingredients, first aid, fire fighting advice, Long term exposure advice, Exposure controls and personal protection advice.
When buying paint demand a MSDS they have to supply when asked its law.
Follow MSDS
Ask questions…until you are sure you understand.


I HAVE A MASK SO I AM GOOD RIGHT?
Um most likely no. At trade school a Sundstrom mask rep checked fit and correct technique of all apprentices. 80% failed. Try placing Fine White flour where your mask meets your face. Breath normally through your mask for a few minutes did the flour make it through? Congrats you have lung cancer. This was the method the rep used.
A lot of apprentices quit after this..
If you are buying a starting off mask I would recommend the Sundstrom SR 90 half face mask or better.It comes in Small, Medium and Large for the size of your face. In every box there is a black rubber disc that most people throw as rubbish keep it. You place the disc in front of your filters when you need to check your mask. If you can not breathe you mask, diaphragms are working and you are wearing it correctly. Read all the instructions to all your mask as wel . I would also buy your mask from a proper health and safety shop. Ask to get fitted for a Mask and take the MSDS to help them select the filters you will need. Remember once the filters are on the mask they are working you need to place it in an airtight container when not on your face. Change filters as instructions recommend.
Masks work only when they are on your face… they lose all effectiveness when left in your toolbox. Laugh it up but you be surprised how many times I ask painters where their mask is..
Sundstrom is my recommendation. Ask others, seek advice.
But buy Quality
SO I BOUGHT A GOOD HALF MASK.
Well a well fitted quality mask with correct filters (dust and gas types) is the least I would go.
A lot of painters use this type of mask day to day but if you intend to paint a lot (weekly) or work with 2k paint you need more protection.
What is ideal for 2k is an Air Fed Hood. Why? Masks with filters rely on filtering out toxic chemicals they are super good but not 100% effective chemicals still get through.
An air fed hood and wall mounted filter package these systems filter compressed air and supply it to a hood kept at higher pressure. The painter always breathes clean air its 100% effective These are a worthy purchase if you intend to keep painting. Seek advice with these. SATA makes really good units.
OK I GOT THIS MASK STUFF DOWN… IM GOOD TO GO RIGHT?
Um no.
Your skin is not a barrier to chemicals… anything on your skin is in your blood doing damage.
The soft skin on your body is very good at transferring chemicals into your blood. When you have paint on your skin imagine that it is a nicotine patch but its transferring bastard chemicals into your blood that want to kill you.
So wear gloves to keep hands paint free.
Barrier suits( white Tyvek suits) to keep overspray off skin.
Glasses to keep overspray out of your eyes.
If you finish you day painting and your hands or skin are a mess you failed..
Reconsider what you did to do better next time.
I think this covers it but read the MSDS first and do what it recommends exactly it is there only to look after you and keep you safe.
Hope this helps
Wear a mask
next time we will cover something more fun.


This is a great explanation of PPE, thank you very much for taking the time to write it up.

_________________
Lindsay Palmer
06 Mazda SP23
80 Alfa GTV (weekend toy)
86 626 Turbo (daily drive, now stolen)
71 cooper s replica
69 cooper replica
76 clubman
62 english 850
68 Mini Auto


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 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 1:50 am 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:13 am
Posts: 411
Womble72 wrote:
p7676 wrote:
Thanks for the great post, maybe it would good to include the use of the best primers to use on a bare shell which has been sand blasted eg epoxy primer some of the mini boys tend to cut cost by using not so good primers and then they use another brand of paint.
P7676

Thanks for the reply p7676. Yeah, sure we could cover this. Maybe actually get some replies from the actual paint companies themselves.
see what they recommend.
See if I can get done for late next week


Short answer is there are two main options for primer systems, etch primer followed by primer filler or epoxy primer. I work for Dulux as their development chemist for the refinish business. I personally prefer 2k primers as they provide a fast curing cross linked film which is much more resistant to solvents and won't shrink back when top coated.

_________________
Lindsay Palmer
06 Mazda SP23
80 Alfa GTV (weekend toy)
86 626 Turbo (daily drive, now stolen)
71 cooper s replica
69 cooper replica
76 clubman
62 english 850
68 Mini Auto


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 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 3:37 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2017 3:30 pm
Posts: 31
Quote:
Short answer is there are two main options for primer systems, etch primer followed by primer filler or epoxy primer. I work for Dulux as their development chemist for the refinish business. I personally prefer 2k primers as they provide a fast curing cross linked film which is much more resistant to solvents and won't shrink back when top coated.

Hello Lindsay. how is life at Dulux?
I am a little confused does PPG still have the rights to Dulux 2k and AAA still or Is Dulux back selling these products.
Or do you have other products? I have not seen you guys around or at tradeshows for a while?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 3:46 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2017 3:30 pm
Posts: 31
Quote:
The main issue with nitrocellulose paint is the dry resin is unstable, and can explode. My understanding is the finished paint is ok. There is still a lot of nitrocellulose lacquers used for painting musical instruments.


Thank you Lindsay.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 4:35 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:13 am
Posts: 411
Womble72 wrote:
Quote:
Short answer is there are two main options for primer systems, etch primer followed by primer filler or epoxy primer. I work for Dulux as their development chemist for the refinish business. I personally prefer 2k primers as they provide a fast curing cross linked film which is much more resistant to solvents and won't shrink back when top coated.

Hello Lindsay. how is life at Dulux?
I am a little confused does PPG still have the rights to Dulux 2k and AAA still or Is Dulux back selling these products.
Or do you have other products? I have not seen you guys around or at tradeshows for a while?


Work is going well. I'm actually on holiday in Vietnam currently so life is good.

PPG brought the original Dulux refinish and OEM business when ICI sold Dulux. Dulux group then re entered to refinish business in , I think, 2006 or so with a new range of products. I joined the business about 6 years ago. I'm not sure if we have done trade shows in the past, but in my time with the business we have not done trade shows to my knowledge.

I hope that helps, let me know if it doesn't.

_________________
Lindsay Palmer
06 Mazda SP23
80 Alfa GTV (weekend toy)
86 626 Turbo (daily drive, now stolen)
71 cooper s replica
69 cooper replica
76 clubman
62 english 850
68 Mini Auto


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 9:29 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 5:03 pm
Posts: 2729
Location: Out in the shed cleaning up my own mess.
Thanks to Womble for the great safety tips.

_________________
1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 7:04 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2017 3:30 pm
Posts: 31
AEG163job wrote:
Thanks to Womble for the great safety tips.

thanks more than welcome...


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