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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 1:59 pm 
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9YaTaH wrote:
Recondition your existing donk, get a reputable repairer on here to do the work...think about stroking and mildly camming your existing engine (assuming it is a good overhaul candidate)...add extractors, carbs and disks (don't forget to do the clutch whilst at it).

ohhh...and one of these for the look and sound (peel off label first)...



I would rather do my own 998 engine and make it awesome if I can, im just unsure I could do that for a decent amount of coin thats all?

And seriously milo tin exhaust? haha really?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 2:06 pm 
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Go for it. $4000 is plenty to recondition yours IMO. Find a 1098 crank to throw into it for more CC's or just bore it out bigger. CC's, Cam, Head. Those three things give you biggest power increase.

Cheaper option might be to buy another complete 998 and pillage the good parts from either yours or the spare 998. Otherwise you have to buy new and that can be expensive. Example: If the idler gear on yours is bad but the spare 998 has a better idler gear then use that one instead. A new idler $295

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 2:08 pm 
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Lillee wrote:
Go for it. $4000 is plenty to recondition yours IMO. Find a 1098 crank to throw into it for more CC's or just bore it out bigger. CC's, Cam, Head. Those three things give you biggest power increase.

Cheaper option might be to buy another complete 998 and pillage the good parts from either yours or the spare 998. Otherwise you have to buy new and that can be expensive. Example: If the idler gear on yours is bad but the spare 998 has a better idler gear then use that one instead. A new idler $295



Ahh yep sweet!!

So ideally based on all of that it would be close to 3-4k from an engine builder to do it all? I dont have a mechanical bone in my body lol


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 2:16 pm 
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dawi03 wrote:
Lillee wrote:
Go for it. $4000 is plenty to recondition yours IMO. Find a 1098 crank to throw into it for more CC's or just bore it out bigger. CC's, Cam, Head. Those three things give you biggest power increase.

Cheaper option might be to buy another complete 998 and pillage the good parts from either yours or the spare 998. Otherwise you have to buy new and that can be expensive. Example: If the idler gear on yours is bad but the spare 998 has a better idler gear then use that one instead. A new idler $295



Ahh yep sweet!!

So ideally based on all of that it would be close to 3-4k from an engine builder to do it all? I dont have a mechanical bone in my body lol


Maybe? Depends what needs doing. Don't forget there's a gearbox to recondition as well if it needs work.

Making stuff go faster isn't cheap full stop. I'd be looking at HIF44 on a good intake manifold and some good medium bore LCB extractors, definitely a new cam grind which means new lifters, put in double row timing chain etc. Flat top pistons which means all new bearings big and small end. Re-bore 998 block. New clutch plate and perhaps a lightweight flywheel of some description. Then headwork, flow benched with unleaded inserts perhaps (speak to Graham Russell about this area as he is the boss when it comes to mini heads and flow benching). 1.3:1 roller tip rockers perhaps.

All this is $$$ basically.

Oh and I haven't even started on gearbox :lol:

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Last edited by Lillee on Tue Jul 05, 2016 2:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 2:18 pm 
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848cc
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Lillee wrote:
dawi03 wrote:
Lillee wrote:
Go for it. $4000 is plenty to recondition yours IMO. Find a 1098 crank to throw into it for more CC's or just bore it out bigger. CC's, Cam, Head. Those three things give you biggest power increase.

Cheaper option might be to buy another complete 998 and pillage the good parts from either yours or the spare 998. Otherwise you have to buy new and that can be expensive. Example: If the idler gear on yours is bad but the spare 998 has a better idler gear then use that one instead. A new idler $295



Ahh yep sweet!!

So ideally based on all of that it would be close to 3-4k from an engine builder to do it all? I dont have a mechanical bone in my body lol


Maybe? Depends what needs doing. Don't forget there's a gearbox to recondition as well if it needs work.

Making stuff go faster isn't cheap full stop. I'd be looking at HIF44 on a good intake manifold and some good medium bore LCB extractors, definitely a new camp grind which means new lifters, put in double row timing chain etc. New clutch plate and perhaps a lightweight flywheel of some description. Then headwork, flow benched with unleaded inserts perhaps (speak to Graham Russell about this area as he is the boss when it comes to mini heads and flow benching). 1.3:1 roller tip rockers perhaps.

All this is $$$ basically.



Yeah, Im happy to dump 3-4k to do it thats not an issue, i just dont want it to blow out to 6k thats all lol

also want it to sound amazing too if thats possible with a 998


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 2:20 pm 
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You're obsessed with this sound thing lol.

Cheap solution: change your exhaust to LCBs and a single box RC40 and keep your engine! You can do this now without a new engine and use it later for the new engine as well.

Better still, look into a 40mm Weber if you want it to sound awesome

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 2:22 pm 
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dawi03 wrote:
I would rather do my own 998 engine and make it awesome if I can, im just unsure I could do that for a decent amount of coin thats all?

And seriously milo tin exhaust? haha really?


Milo Tin is optional...but a good set of extractors and muffler will sound good on just about any Mini engine...

Read Project Small Bore on GRs website...

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 2:22 pm 
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In case it helps in the discussion of options you can get a reconditioned exchange engine, either 998cc and 1098cc, that you could build on. Below are some examples. I reckon you could sweet-talk MKO to have the cam that comes with the unit swapped for a GR alternative.

http://minikingdomonline.com.au/product ... -exchange/

http://minikingdomonline.com.au/product ... -exchange/

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 2:47 pm 
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Has anyone run (or have an objective opinion on) the Paul Gulson engines that keep popping up in my ebay feed?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MOKE-1100-cc ... Swj0NUioDb

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MOKE-1215-cc ... Swj0NUioDb

I think there is a 998 variant that pops up also.

Same boat - do I rebuild, or exchange.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 3:04 pm 
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winabbey wrote:
In case it helps in the discussion of options you can get a reconditioned exchange engine, either 998cc and 1098cc, that you could build on. Below are some examples. I reckon you could sweet-talk MKO to have the cam that comes with the unit swapped for a GR alternative.

http://minikingdomonline.com.au/product ... -exchange/

http://minikingdomonline.com.au/product ... -exchange/


Can't go wrong at those prices. $1350


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 6:01 pm 
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gtogreen1969 wrote:
winabbey wrote:
In case it helps in the discussion of options you can get a reconditioned exchange engine, either 998cc and 1098cc, that you could build on. Below are some examples. I reckon you could sweet-talk MKO to have the cam that comes with the unit swapped for a GR alternative.

http://minikingdomonline.com.au/product ... -exchange/

http://minikingdomonline.com.au/product ... -exchange/


Can't go wrong at those prices. $1350



What does the exchange engine mean? You give your old one to them?

How is this a good price I am confused? surely a rebuild back to stock wouldnt cost more than 1350?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 6:09 pm 
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You are getting a crank that is crack tested and reground $341. A rebore and new pistons. All the internals are done for you. Regrind on the cam. Bearings fitted. Just hand over a crappy $50 block in exchange. I don't think it would be much cheaper if you had all the work done to your own block. If your crank is cracked then you are out the cost of the testing and purchasing another crank. Just my thoughts


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 6:25 pm 
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848cc
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gtogreen1969 wrote:
You are getting a crank that is crack tested and reground $341. A rebore and new pistons. All the internals are done for you. Regrind on the cam. Bearings fitted. Just hand over a crappy $50 block in exchange. I don't think it would be much cheaper if you had all the work done to your own block. If your crank is cracked then you are out the cost of the testing and purchasing another crank. Just my thoughts


ahh ok fair enough, so if I can convince them to give me a 1098 crank for 1350 then its a good start? my problem is getting the engine there and back haha. wonder if Tovon Auto can do a deal with them or something.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 10:14 am 
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dawi03 wrote:

What does the exchange engine mean? You give your old one to them?

How is this a good price I am confused? surely a rebuild back to stock wouldnt cost more than 1350?


Heres an idea...open your yellow pages under engine reconditioners...pick a local one...get a quote...then ask for opinions on Ausmini :idea:

or...look at Australian Mini Businesses (VIC) on Ausmini

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 12:40 pm 
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gtogreen1969 wrote:
Just hand over a crappy $50 block in exchange.

I think they have plenty of blocks. It's the 1098 crank that's the most important bit you need to supply, but confirm that with MKO before committing.

dawi03 wrote:
my problem is getting the engine there and back haha.

If it's any help I'll be driving up to Sydney from Melbourne in a couple of weeks and can bring an engine back.

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