winabbey wrote:
A question on tools if I may.
What is included in a good basic set of hammers and dolly's for a beginner and what brand should I buy (and what to avoid)? I always try to buy good quality automotive tools (old Sidchrome spanners/sockets, for example) but I'm guessing I don't need to go to the expense of trade quality given the relatively limited use they will get. I plan to try to knock out a few dents in the doors and side panels where access from the rear is possible.
Will an inexpensive set get me started, like the one's on eBay and elsewhere, or is the hammer head likely to fly off without warning on these cheapies?
Hi winabbey,
To answer your question regarding brands,, well there were many many brands available from Europe and the UK for a long time.. but with recent trends over the last 15-20 years moving away from hand forming and "Panel Beating" and moving towards "Panel Replacement", a lot of these companies have gone under or are now non existant.. The only one that has survived is Sykes Pickavant, and they are still pretty good but even their quality isn't what it was.
What I would suggest is look for
good tools rather than
brand name tools.
Here are some of mine and what to look for and what not to look for...
The photo below is what is called a "Planishing Hammer". It is the hammer you will probably use the most. It has a round face with a flat profile.
Planishing hammer side on, note the flat face
If you look at the photo below, you will see 2 Planishing hammers side by side. Try and find one with a face the size of a 50cent piece, it will make a world of difference, they are much quicker to work with and the stretch the panel less. All hammers will stretch, even "shrinking hammers" stretch, they just don't stretch as much.
The hammer on the right is a decesnt one, the one on the left is an el cheapo.
Below is a photo of a Utility or Universal Dolly. This like the planishing hammer is a tool that you will use a lot. If you are only going to buy 1 hammer and 1 dolly, make it a planishing hamer and a Uni dolly. The universal dolly gets its name because it has a Flat face, a Curved face, and a highly curved face, so you can us it for a lot.
Uni dolly from another angle
and another angle
.
.
.
Here is a photo of a Pick, you don't use these much (or I don't anyway), because of the shape of its face, it is an extreme stretching hammer. You would only ever use this with a dolly normally.
.
.
.
Here is a photo of a Return Curve, or Reverse Curve Hammer. It has two ends with different faces, one is curved one way, one is curved the other. You would only use this type of hammer
inside a curved panel.
Close up
.
.
.
This is antother useful dolly, its called a Toe Dolly. It is really good for hot shrinking. It has a flat face, a gently curved face and a sharpe point.
anohter angle
..
.
.
This is a photo of a Curved or Comma dolly. From side on it looks like a Comma,
another angle,,, see why they call it a comma dolly
.
.
.
If you can either buy these as a kit or individually you will be able to do most tasks. One tip with hammers, if you are buying hammers with wood handles (make sure they are Hickory) try getting ones with SATIN finish, varnished finishes can give you blisters. Also, better quality hammers have longer handles. Longer handles are better becuase you can hit harder without swinging much harder (they have a better leverage action).. I know that sounds a bit sooky but remember that you will be hitting a panel at least 180 times a minute, so you want to be comfortable or you'll cop RSI.
.
.
.
.
There are a lot more hammers and tools available, but what I have put it is the ones that you are likely to use the most.
.
.
.
Winabbey, I've had a look at that ebay kit, it looks ok.. I don't think it will come apart on you. You can get better stuff,, but if you are not doing it full time, that kit ""should"" serve you just fine...
Does that help?