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Doogie's guide to removing a mini engine https://ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=45377 |
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Author: | doogie [ Mon Sep 01, 2008 3:48 pm ] |
Post subject: | Doogie's guide to removing a mini engine |
There has been much discussion about removing a mini engine & whats involved, heres a guide of how to do it The victim, my Mk1 Cooper S Try to have a tidy work area, spend 1/2 cleaning up & sweeping the floor I like to have my tools clean & organised Now onto the process, step 1 disconnect the battery Open the bonnet & remove the 4 7/16 headed nuts on the bonnet hinges, tip put some sheet foam or a folded up rag under the corners of the bonnet to prevent scrathes Remove the grill, on rounnoses theres 4 screws, on a clubman there 7 also remove the bonnet closing panel on a clubman Safely jack up the car & put study axles stands under & lower onto stands Drain engine oil, sump plug is located on the front left of the engine, a 15/16 socket or spanner is needed This is not uncommon, the sump plugs are magnetised so stray bits of metal stick to it Remove the front wheels If fitted remove the brake booster & steel brake pipes that plumb it to the brake system A magnet on a stick helps to avoid dropping nuts into engine bay Tip, a wheel stud screwed into the master cylinder & 3 way junction stops brake fluid loss Now for the carby, if fitted with a weber, remove it complete with the manifold, if a single or twin Su's a fitted, remove the necks off the carbs Undo top engine steady bolts & swing steady out of the way, Note some minis have another steady on the right side, remove this one Disconnet the battery cable & wires from the solenoid, if needed mark the wires to where they go, or take pics before disconnecting, disconnect temp gauge, alternator & coil wires If fitted disconnect oil pressure gauge piping & move aside If fitted remove oil cooler & piping unbolt clutch slave master cylinder & move aside Undo both heater hoses & move aside Under the car now On remote gear boxes undo the 4 9/16 headed bolts & slip of remote housing For rod change selector, put the car into reverse & tap the roll pin out of the sleeve, then remove the 1/2 headed bolt from the upper arm & remove There are many styles of extractors all have the own way of coming apart im sure you can work out how to get them apart, on a standard maniflod, remove the 2 bolts & the clamp & seperate the manifold & exhaust Universals, there are 3 types of mini universals, hardy spicers, rubber style & pot joint In this cars case it has hardy spicer uni's, undo the 4 1/2 headed nylon nuts & move uni aside Rubber uni style, undo the 8 1/2 headed nuts, remove the U bolts & uni Pot joint, you need to undo & break the taper on the bottom ball joint & remove ball joint from control arm & pop driveshaft out of the pot joint Undo engine mounts Underside of the car should be done now Undo the earth strap Attach your engine lifting bracket Engine is ready to come out now, attach your lifter, block & tackle etc etc Begin lifting the engine, on remote style gearbox you need to tilt the engine as it lifts to clear the firewall Once up high enough, disconnect speedo cable Engine should be clear of car now This is roughly what you sholud be left with Depending on how many times you've done this, it can take anywhere from 1/2 hour to 10 hours. This is a rough guide, it's how i remove a mini engine, im aware other have their own ways of doing it but hopefully this helps you a little A few of these does'nt hurt either Good luck Doogie |
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